Download Decrypt Samsung Tv Recordings Tickets

I’ve been playing with ambient light for my TV for a while now, as you can see in the ““, to make colorful lights (LEDs) light up matching the video you’re seeing on your TV. The downside of that project is that it only works for a dedicated running for example (XBMC). But what if I’d like to see this with video from my XBox 360, XBox One, Wii, or Blu-ray player or cable box? Besides the fact that we need to grab this video, and all it’s technical complications, we will be running into a copy protection issue called, a feature nobody really asked for. Please note that I’m not writing this article to promote pirating content! This article is solely aimed at using non-HDCP compliant equipment with equipment that seems to require HDCP. So I’m looking at older HDMI LCD/LED/Plasma TV’s, HDMI Projectors, Game Recording (PS3), taking screenshots for documentation and/or articles, and of course my own little project to generate ambient light behind my TV!

Please keep this in mind. HDMI and HDCP – Some background information HDCP is a copy protection that was added to the HDMI standard, at a later time, by Intel. The first HDMI versions did not include HDCP, but most modern HDMI capable devices support it. The content, or content source (where the “output” comes from), determines if HDCP is needed, and is/was intended to prevent content to be displayed or recorded by unauthorized devices.

Free decrypt samsung tv recordings Download. Decrypt Samsung TV Recordings (free) download Windows version You can download De. STRoi - Decrypt Samsung TV Recordings 1. Nov 24, 2011 3. Start playing file you want to decrypt on TV! SamyGO - Samsung LED TV PVR Recording Decrypt. Please download.

See it as the digital counter part of as was used with analog video way back in the day. HDCP uses authorization and encryption – it verifies (authenticate) the receiving party (Destination or “input”) – i.e. The video sources asks for the secret code from the destination device, before it sends content, so the receiving party is authorized and can decrypt. Even though the and for demonstration purposes, HDCP is still in full use. Just like those idiotic. Non compliant devices, an old (HDMI) TV for example, will simply display a message that the content cannot be displayed or will display a blank screen. Naturally a “HDCP remover” or “HDCP Stripper” device is not readily available to the public or is it?

CAUTION: Not intended to promote illegal copying and/or piracy! I cannot emphasize this enough!

This article was not written with illegal copying, ripping or to promote piracy. The sole purpose is to be able to use non-HDCP compliant equipment with HDCP video sources. This can be you old TV or projector, or trying to record game playing (PS3), making screenshots, or my little ambient light project. Bypassing HDCP with the intend to copy/pirate content is MOST CERTAINLY ILLEGAL in most countries!

Methods to Remove HDCP from HDMI Convert to Analog One of the methods used, yet sometimes complicated and expensive, is by converting the signal for example to VGA, Component or Composite video. This conversion to an analog signal will result in a degraded picture quality, but the result might not be too bad.

Note that some converters do honor HDCP and might not work either. For my Ambient Light project I’ve considered using this, since I only need a low resolution representation of the video – Ideally I’d prefer a video output of say 160 x 90 pixels. But more about that once I’ve finished that project. Select a Different (Analog) Video Output Some devices, like the PlayStation 3 for example, have Component (good for 1080p if your TV supports it!), S-Video or Composite video output as well. HDCP does not support analog connections and you should be able to view the video just fine on non-HDCP devices.

The video quality may however be of a lower quality (Component Video is recommended – see also ““) as well. Firmware Setting Some devices, like a PlayStation 4 console, offer the option to disable HDCP. The downside can be that some apps, which require HDCP, will not work when HDCP is disabled. For more details ““. Note that quite a lot of devices, like the, and for example the Amazon Fire TV, dynamically set HDCP on their HDMI ports. This means that for example the navigation menu of the Amazon Fire TV and certain non-HDCP apps will work just fine. However, as soon as you play HDCP content (Amazon Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc), your screen will turn black.

The way to go is a cheap HDMI Splitter, if you find the right one Another, much easier and cheaper method, is the use of a HDMI splitter. A splitter in essence makes it possible to (for example) connect 2 TV’s to one HDMI source, not designed to strip the HDCP, but some actually do exactly that.

The example below illustrates a 1×2 splitter. HDMI Splitter – On source, Two (or more) Destinations Some HDMI splitters (I have seen 1×2 and 1×4 splitters) by accident strip the HDCP encryption, and the funny part is that these are typically very cheap splitters.

However, keep in mind: there is absolutely no guarantee that every HDMI splitter strips HDCP. Even the ones listed below might or might not do the trick.

Key with these splitters seems to be that they support up to HDMI 1.3b, which does not need to be a big problem unless you’re planning on blasting 4K or even 8K video over the HDMI cable. Another commonality seems to be that they appear cheap China products. Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output. HDMI Splitters that have been reported to strip HDCP These are NOT guaranteed to work! Manufacturers change hardware all the time, so this “feature” might not work with newer models or revisions!

HDMI 1.4 (and newer) devices will most likely not work! I highly recommend, definitely at Amazon, to read the most recent customer comments carefully! Some splitters need to have the HDMI cables connected BEFORE you power them on! Below a list with splitters that have been reported to actually strip HDCP.

If you find other models that work, or find out that a model is no longer supporting this, then please report this in the comments. • (reported working – see comments) • (see comments in the Dutch section – confirmed by 2 users) • – $24 at Amazon (confirmed, but some have been reported it to fail – see comments below) • – $25 at Amazon (I tested this model but recent models fail!!!) • – $38 eBay (use Output 3 or 4) • – $50 at eBay (use Output 3 or 4) • – $20 at eBay • – $30 at eBay Testing HDCP removal The way I tested my setup, is by using a non-HDCP device as the destination device, and my playing Netflix or Amazon Video content. Finding such a device shouldn’t be a problem, otherwise you’d probably not be reading this article. For those with a PlayStation 3 – it seems that the PS3 always has HDCP enabled, unless you have a developer device (unlikely), so that or a BluRay player would work well as a source too. For other devices, the general rule is that HDCP will be enabled when copyrighted content (eg.

A movie) is being played. First test the “failing” setup In my case I used a device to record game playing, specifically the game capture device (), which shows a black screen when playing HDCP content or an error message, as demonstrated below. Well, it seems the way to go is using one of these splitters, one output to the TV, and the other one to a HDMI2AV converter (convert HDMI to Analog video). The analog video then goes to a cheap $16 USB Video grabber which is compatible with OpenElec on Raspberry Pi. I thought I had to reinvent the wheel here, but it seems already available at Anyhow, I have all my HDMI devices connected to a Yamaha receiver, which has one HDMI out for the TV so I’ll tap off the feed there and all my devices should work, including OpenElec running on my Raspberry Pi (I just got the model 2). Less challenging than expected, it seems, but I’m sure there will be some challenges left ie. Use my WS2812 LEDs instead of the WS2801 LEDs used in the LightBerry setup, or see if I can use an old Raspberry Pi model A for just this task.

So I do expect to write an article soon hans. Thanks for the heads-up Ray! I did not think of that so I’ll have to decide: ARC functionality or Ambi-light hmm OK, so I’ll admit that I had to do some Google work on this one (Audio Return Channel) was introduced with HDMI 1.4, which would mean that with this splitter (HDMI 1.3!) you’d loose ARC and I only use for the Audio when using the in the TV build receiver (= rarely). However, this is independent of the remote functionality.

I have been wondering too, if 2 devices would send Audio back over ARC, then what should our receiver do with this? At least I’m aware now that I might loose the Return Audio.

(Consumer Electronics Control) however is why your remote isn’t working that way anymore. HDMI 1.3 should support this, but I can imagine that a “splitter” can cause issues here I’m just guessing that the complication can be found in who controls what Unfortunately, this (CEC) didn’t work on my setup to begin with – so instead I use a ““. Once the TV goes on, my Yamaha receiver and media devices switch on automatically as well. Thank you so very much. I used the ViewHD with HDMI version 1.3b and it worked without a hitch. My working setup is Roku 3 ->ViewHD ->Yamaha HTR 3063 ->BenQ SH 910.

The ViewHD is plugged into HDMI 1 and the BenQ is plugged into HDMI Out, which is the HDMI monitor port. Prior to this this setup, Roku 3 ->Yamaha ->BenQ produced sound without picture and Roku 3 ->BenQ ->audio out to Yamaha audio, produced picture with no sound and the HDCP error. It also resulted in significant hair loss.

I’m happy now and not quite bald. Hi Hernan, I have never worked with video wall controllers, but I cannot confirm that HDCP would be the issue – although, you can test this notion easily with the HDMI splitters I mention in this article, and they are not that expensive either. I assume a video wall controller splits the video feed into sections to the connected monitors. So the video is decoded (HDCP removed) before it can do that. Maybe yours defaults to one specific output when it can’t “decode”? Again, I’m no expert when it comes to video wall controllers, but the ones I have found proudly announce HDCP support.

Which brand/model do you have? Couldn’t agree more spending millions on copy protection and so called. Dont’ get me wrong; I understand the need for protection of intellectual property up to a point, but sometimes it simply makes normal use stupid and/or impossible.

Case and point DVD/BluRay region codes, crippling older HDMI equipment, buying a movie but not being allowed to view it on all your devices (ie. Cellphone/tablet), etc. Anyhow, this article was not written to circumvent copy protection and promote piracy, but to be able to use something like Boblight or and older HDMI projector – things to enjoy watching movies one has purchased legally. Hans (solo:-) I initiated a return with eBay for the 3rd one before it was actually shipped by the vendor (I received the other two items and the shipping company still didn’t have the package from the eBay seller). I don’t know if they’ll ship it to me anyway and make me ship it back to them. If they do, I’ll test it before doing so. FWIW, the 3rd item was the least expensive option by far (not $20 but $11.40 per unit).

Re: the 2nd item, the CKITZE GB-520, they manufacturer may have updated the firmware but I don’t see anything that would help identify the ones I received vs the one you tested. The 1st item, ViewHD, worked great. – Robert Robert.

Hi Jeff, I’m not familiar with a Portta Video converter, but your problem is most likely HDMI HDCP protection on the HDMI out of your Cable Box. I don’t know if Portta Video Converter will strip the HDCP. However, if you add one of the HDMI splitters between your Cable Box and your video converter (which converts HDMI to component), then theoretically, you should be good to go. So HDMI out of Cable Box goes to splitter, one output of the Splitter to your TV (of your cable box has only one HDMI out), and the other output of the splitter to your HDMI-to-Component converter. The Component of your HDMI-to-Component converter to your Hauppauge, and your Hauppauge to your TV.

Wow that were a lot of words haha hope this clears it up hans. Thanks again Hans, I already purchased a splitter and a video converter device for $27 so if that doesn’t work I’m not out much, just waiting on them to arrive in the mail do you know if the Elgato Game Capture Device (which looks to only have HDMI ports, 1 in & 1 out) could be used as the pass through device to record live tv to my computer? That is what I used the Hauppauge PVR for until I got the xfinity X1 cable box that only has the 1 HDMI out port.

If the Elgato does that I might get it but I was under the impression that the HDCP protection would not allow you to record programming through HDMI cables like you could through Component Cables. Yes, the Elgato Game CaptureHD is a pass-through device, so you can use it to do live recordings from your TV/Cable box.

In it’s basic setup, it basically “sits” between your cable box and your TV (for example). The USB cable then goes to your PC so you can record the video on your PC with the provided software of Elgato. This works great for a HDMI signal that does not have HDCP protection. Since the Elgato cannot record HDCP protected HDMI signal, one of these cheap splitters is needed to remove the HDCP protection before it gets to the Elgato. So the splitter will actually take the HDCP protected HDMI input, and then output that same signal minus the HDCP protection on both splitter HDMI outputs. This way the Elgato can actually read the signal.

That setup would look something like this: Cable box –>HDMI Splitter (HDCP stripper) –>Elgato –>TV with a USB cable coming from the Elgato, which goes to your PC. You could of course also connect the TV straight to the splitter instead of the HDMI output of the Elgato. Hi Steve, Thank you very much for the compliment, it’s very much appreciated!

As for modifying an existing non-HDCP-stripping HDMI splitter ehm I do not think that would be an easy task. I have read somewhere, so this might not be 100% true, that the cheap splitters that do strip HDCP, actually use a chip that belongs in a TV, and therefor is identified as a “compliant” device, allowing to strip HDCP. If that is the fact, then the chip in your splitter would be the wrong one. Probably easier and more feasible to buy one of those cheap ones that do work. Hans, I received the HD video converter box in the mail and it worked.

I was able to get a test program recorded from my cable box to my computer. How it looks HDMI cable out of the Cable box and into the HD video converter box, then component cables out of the HD converter and into the Hauppauge PVR and HDMI cable from the Hauppauge PVR to the TV, then USB cable from the Hauppauge PVR to PC. I actually did not need the extra HDMI splitter, but now I have one in case I ever need one. Simple really haha. Thanks again for your help.

Hey Guys, Does anyone have any experience with any of the 1 x 4 splitters? I have gone thru several different types of the 1 x 2 splitters with limited success. I have gotten the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 powered HDMI Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3D) to work (Mac Mini output to Splitter: Output 1 to TV and Output 2 to Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record). Now home, I hook the splitter up to the HDMI output of my Onkyo receiver (that has various HDMI inputs – Bluray, Apple TV, cable box) send Output 1 to the TV and Output 2 to the LGP. LGP no longer records. Does the splitter need to be between the device (Bluray, AppleTV, Cable Box) before outputting to the reciever which outputs to the TV?

What are the setups that others are using when a stereo receiver is in the mix? I have an HDMI to component converter that feeds a Blackmagic H.264 recorder, and this works fine except the resulting MP4 is skewed to the left resulting in a slight loss of picture and vertical black line on the right side of the file. There’s no adjustment for this and I assume it is partially due to the HDCP. Trying to make this a straight HDMI feed. The LGP is just an easier setup because it can be used as standalone whereas the Blackmagic H.264 is dependent on a secondary computer. Thank you for any help/suggestions. Hi Trev, I have no experience with 1×4 splitters, but good experience with 1×2 splitters (or I just got very lucky).

There are a few things I’ve read while researching the topic; 1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output. I’m guessing the splitter will use the first device to swap ID’s and such. Not sure if the 2nd device can be connected at startup of the source device, or should be connected after things on the first output are up and running.

2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3. I have no clue how problematic that could be with 1.4 or newer HDMI devices.

Although I cannot imagine that all 1.4+ devices would cripple pre-1.4 devices, can you imagine how many TV’s would need to be tossed? 3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption. In those cases your setup should just work I’d assume. Something I’d try first is connecting a TV instead of the LGP, just to see if there is anything to begin with. You did bring an interesting suggestion though; putting the splitter between source and your Onkyo, Worth a test I would say, and it would s*ck if this would become the way to work. Thank you for your quick reply. Teknomw3 2 7 1 3 Dlc Download Forza. I guess what I need to know, what are guys, that got this to work, doing with multiple devices (Cable Box.

FireTV, AppleTV, Bluray, Game Console). Do they put a single splitter after every device? Send all devices into an HDMI switch (Multiple Inputs to 1 HDMI Output) and then to the 1×2 Splitter? Or like me, all devices into a receiver with an HDMI output (in my case the Onkyo has 2 HDMI outputs).

My original setup was – devices HDMIs to Onkyo receiver. Onkyo main HDMI output to TV.

Onkyo sub HDMI to HDMI to Component Converter. Component Converter to Blackmagic H.264 recorder (hooked to a Mac Mini running Blackmagic software for recording). This works great, except for the slightly misaligned picture. If I hook up the ElGato EyeTV HD with component inputs- no signal is seen coming from the Component Converter.

So, in place of the the HDMI to Component Converter I added the Splitter. Output 1 to the TV, Output 2 to the LGP. Swapped the Outputs on the Switcher. Still nothing. Tested the LGP and it is passing the signal thru itself to the TV, just no go on the record side. The reasons I’m trying to use the LGP – 1) Video straight thru via HDMI and 2) using the LGP as a standalone unit thus freeing up my Mac Mini for other uses.

I’ve tried a Sewell, a no name splitter, and the ViewHD, all are 1×2 splitters. So if there is anyone that has had any luck using the 1×4 splitter, I would be greatful to find out which one works and a link to where it can be bought. To your responses: 1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output. Yes, I did make sure that the TV was on the first output.

Then tried the second output. 2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.

I have pretty much made sure not to do any firmware upgrades on the devices to avoid HDMI Standard 1.4. But it wouldn’t surprise me if the manufacturers wanted us to all invest in new TVs. HD 1080p was supposed to be enough but now they are pushing 4K sets on us. Great 3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption. Yes, that seemed to be the case. I have a feeling that I’m just too late to the game getting any of the early splitters that work this way. I hope that anyone who has recently purchased a 1×2 or 1×4 Splitter and had it work in the way we’ve been talking about, will add to this discussion.

A new list of working splitters, with model numbers, date aquired, date of actual HDCP decryption and links to where the splitter was bought would be fantastic. In all my web searches, this has been the best sight with any kind of helpful information in this issue. Highest of praise to the moderators!! I’m heading to my parents house for the week, so I’m done trying anything else for the day. When I get back I will try putting the splitter directly after the device before going thru the Onkyo and get back with the results. Again, thank you Hans for your valued input!

Hi Trevor, First of all; thanks for the compliments! I would expect that most would feed all HDMI’s to their receiver, and have the output of the receiver connected to the splitter. From there go to TV and recorder (or what I’m planning to do: to an AmbiLight/Boblight setup). I haven’t had much of a chance to test this though. So basically your old setup, with the splitter on your HDMI main output (instead of the the sub). Could it be that the sub output is actually causing the issue? Did you try that?

As for TV’s, did you see they already started pushing 8K TV’s? I don’t think I’ll be upgrading my 1080p TV anytime soon haha. Who knows; by the time it’s dying we might be looking at 4 more generations haha.

Thanks for the reply. Yea think you’re likely right. The problem is even the ones that are listed as 1.3 if they’re 1.3b Ive seen those can also be compatible with 1.4. That site for some reason confuses me.

Do you happen to see any that look promising you could share please? For some reason everything on it looks shady to me for some reason lol. Probably just not familiar enough with it to know what to look for. Haha probably. Cool, I can wait I guess.

Have the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 sitting there waiting to be used as of yesterday. Yeah AliExpress has a reputation when it comes to confusing customers – very true! Contradicting statements (advertise HDMI 1.4, but listing 1.3b), poor translations from Chinese (I guess), and incomplete info (HDCP stripper in the title, but nowhere to be found in the text).

What I’d do: – look for one that actually states “HDCP Stripper” in the title and in the body (text) – look at reviews/comments, see if anyone confirms that it actually strips HDCP – contact the seller an ask if it’s REALLY stripping HDCP (you’ll find that option, on the left, just under the “main” picture, under the heading “Sold By”) AliExpress has buyer protection and in my experience the sellers are pretty eager to make sure you’re not complaining about them. So if you order one (for example – $11 with free shipping) you at least have reasons for them to correct the situation if the splitter is not doing HDPC stripping). So far, and I have ordered stuff with them plenty of times in the past, I have encountered only one instance where I had to complain with the seller. They fixed it pretty quick, and send me a free new item (this was not an HDMI splitter). Just checked Amazon and yes, it is coming from China. Got the following in an email from the company: Thank you for your purchase and prompt payment.

Your item has been shipped by registered airmail today. The detailed information of shipping as below: Item title: HDMI-Cloner Box Suite (latest firmware) Estimated arrival time: 7-10 days In the process of recording certain video sources, TV may display black screen. Please proceed as follows: 1. Please confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING). Please press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV. If your TV still displays black screen, please proceed as follows. Power off HDMI-Cloner Box and restart it again.

Wait for 10 seconds, and then confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING). Press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV. There are more step-by-step instructions with both texts and pictures at our website. HDMI-Cloner Helper is the bonus software of HDMI-Cloner Box Suite, which is a smart program to merge files, trim video, create DVD/Blu-ray movie discs from video file, etc. This is your registration information for the HDMI-Cloner Helper. Please download the software on ClonerAlliance Inc.’s official website. So as soon as it arrives, I will put it to the test and report back here.

Brian – Thanks again for posting this devices link! A review by Trev of the: Note: The is a $100 standalone HDMI recorder, which appears to [not] strip HDCP. This is a brief review of the (referred to as “C-B”) from Cloner Alliance as purchased thru Amazon (link). Just looked at the link and now thru Christmas they are offering a 16GB USB2 thumb drive instead of the 2GB that I received. I am continuing to test this on 2 separate Samsung LED HDTVs, so bare with me. With both setups, I have a BluRay player and an Apple TV3 going HDMI into an Onkyo Stereo receiver that has 2 HDMIs out.

The primary HDMI output going to the Samsung HDTV, the secondary going to my recording device. I have 4 different recorders. The Blackmagic H.264 and EyeTV HD, both of which require a software on a computer to record (I’m using a Mac Mini).

The Avermedia Live Gamer Portable (using a 64GB SD card after setting the LGP to its highest record setting -8Mbps- using the computer software) and the recently acquired C-B. With the C-B, I thought it best to hook it directly to the source and TV.

The instructions are very simple and straightforward. I hooked up all the necessary cable (power, 2 HDMI cables – 1 In, 1 Out) then plugged in my 64GB USB 3 thumb drive formatted NTFS.

According to the manual, NTFS will record a single file while FAT32 will record as many 2GB files as necessary. I then turned everything on, the LED on the HDMI Cloner box settle on blue (1080i/p), and worked my way thru the Apple TV3 to Netflix selected a movie, pressed record and let it go.

Netflix started playing but within 4 seconds paused and gave that familiar warning about HDCP. I decided to try the trailers app instead and they seemed to play ok so I tried recording Superman vs Batman.

The C-B flashed that it was recording, when the trailer finished, I hit the rec/stop button, the C-B flashed a few times showing it was finishing its write to the USB flash drive. Took the drive to my Mac and there was NO file. I tried several reformats of the 64GB USB drive and no recorded file after multiple attempts. I then tried the 2GB drive that came with the C-B, and it recorded the trailer perfectly.

I then tried Netflix with the 2GB drive and still no go due to HDCP non compliance in the system. I then got my 32GB USB 3 thumb drive, formatted it NTFS, tried a movie trailer record and no file. Reformatted it FAT32, tried recording a trailer and it worked. So this far into it, I have determined that I am not able to record to a drive larger than 32GB – Manual says it can handle 2TB storage. I will try a 2TB hard drive thru a USB 3 dock I have later. NOTE: The Apple TV3 I am using so far has software version 7.2. The other one I have is running version 6.2.

I have tried to keep at least one of them from updating the software since I originally purchased them. NOTE: Having a flash drive with an LED helps to confirm that the C-B is actually “talking” to it since you have no other way to confirm it is till the end of the recording process. The 64GB drive had none but the 32GB one I have does and helped re-assure that something was happening. So straight out of the box, I am having no luck in doing a straight record from an Apple TV3 with content that has HDCP.

I decided to try adding a splitter to the mix (specifically the ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D). I have 3 versions of this splitter and chose the oldest one of the three to experiment with first. So the HDMI pathway that I now have hooked up is Apple TV3 to ViewHD – Output 1 to HDMI In 1 on the TV Output 2 to the C-B with HDMI output to HDMI in 2 on the TV. This allows me to verify the signal out of the Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV and to switch over to HDMI 2 on the TV to verify the HDMI feed thru the C-B.

Sorry if some of this sounds repetitive, just trying to make sure my thought process is easy to follow. Turning everything on, Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV comes up with a clean signal (no flashing, no blips of green digital mess like I get when the second output of the splitter is hooked up to a noncompliant HDCP device) so I switched to Input 2 of the TV and verified that the signal coming thru the C-B was fine. I navigated thru the Apple TV3 menu to Netflix, chose a movie, started the record on the C-B then started the movie.

Two hours and 40 minutes later, I stopped the record, the C-B flashed a few times and stopped. Took the USB drive to my computer and I have a single 11.94GB mp4 file. Checking it, the file is GOOD!! So the 32GB USB3 thumb drive formatted for NTFS worked properly (I thought I had reformatted it FAT32 – guess not).

The file is 1080p and looks great – for Netflix. The Avermedia LGP recorder had no such luck in this configuration in place of the C-B. When I have the time, I will try other splitters I have with this setup, as well as trying the C-P in line after my Onkyo Stereo and various other setups. I will post my findings as soon as possible. So, my quick findings confirm that the HDMI Cloner Box, in conjunction with the ViewHD splitter, will overcome the HDCP coming from content streamed thru my Apple TV3.

This is great if you want a stand alone recorder. It sucks having to tie up a computer using software and a capture device. REVISED: After reading some other posts about the HDMI Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance, I found that this device will ABSOLUTELY record HDCP signals right out of the box!!

I took apart and reset all my devices and cabling. The A-TV3 HDMI straight into the C-B, to the Samsung LED HDTV HDMI Input 1.

I then avigated to Netflix, picked a movie, on the C-B I pressed and held down the REC/Stop button for 5 seconds to change the LED to green (720p record). I then pressed and held down the REC/Stop button again for 5 seconds to change back to blue LED (1080p record) while selecting play on Netflix. Once the movie started playing I let go of the REC/Stop button and the C-B flashed it was recording.

Once the movie was done, I hit REC/Stop on the C-B, let the LED flash a few times before it went solid, removed the 32GB thumb drive. I have a nice mp4 file of The Devil’s Advocate at 2 hours 23 minutes and 50 seconds taking up 10.95GB.

In my post above, I couldn’t get a 64GB thumb drive to work. Upon further online reading, this device seems to be picky about the thumb drive attached. So I figure I’ll get a Lexar media thumb drive since they do not throttle their record rates like Sandisk does. So, if you are looking at this device to record HDCP content without any extra devices hooked up, it absolutely does! Good morning Hans, Yes, here is the link to their software and firmware updates. The last firmware update was from May of 2015 so I pretty much assume the C-B I have has it already, but it does not address the issue of only stereo records.

Recording on the box has been going great! No need for any splitter. The C-B is super light weight and I really thought I’d been sent an empty box, but everything works as described. I do wish the C-B drew its power thru a USB port instead of a power adapter, like the Avermedia LGP since I have plenty of USB ports available.

Would make it a little more portable, not having to pack an extra power supply. It does get really hot while running and I wish they had some more venting other than the vents on the bottom of the box. I have it elevated and a small USB fan blowing on it to help keep it cool. I’m half tempted to buy another one just as a backup.

Again, I can not recommend this recorder enough! Picture quality is great and if they come out with a firmware update to change the audio to a 5.1 record I would give this a full 5 stars on Amazon. Yeah, I can imagine that people would like the 5.1 Audio As for getting hot; maybe open it up and place a few small heatsinks, and add some holes to the casing? Small stuff like that getting very hot makes me nervous as well. Does the power supply state how many Amps it’s pulling?

If it gets really hot, I’d assume it will be up there, and a regular USB2 or maybe even USB3 port might not pull it off. Thank you very much for the review – please let us know when an update appears for the 5.1 Audio.

For now, I’ll stick with my Elgato – I’m not using it for recording movies, just for screenshots or short clips and such for articles. Stripping HDPC for me is mostly so I can make Ambient lighting for my TV for ALL sources. Yeah I suppose most of these devices use the same or similar chipsets. The do probably use a different chip for talking HDMI (because of the HDCP stripping). A fan would do the trick! I prefer passive cooling because of the noise, but a fan is always more effective. My is powered through the USB bus as well.

If I recall correctly; if your device tries to pull too much power from a USB, then simply nothing happens. Something with the circuitry of the USB bus of your computer protecting it from overloading. I’m thinking of all the times I’ve hooked up an external 3.5″ disk that pulled too much power haha hans. Yes, I have 3 of the same model, 1 older than the other 2. The older one I have successfully been able to use between a Mac Mini HDMI to the ViewHD Splitter sending Output 1 to the LCD TV and Output 2 to the Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record from Heche Bee OH streaming.

However, I have not been able to get this to work with an AppleTV. Me Here – So Foxtel is Australian pay television service. So you are coming out an iQ cable box/DVR to the splitter. What are you using to do the record?

Good afternoon I purchased the splitter below in hops that it would be able to bypass the HDCP in a Playstation TV device. While using it (In collaboration with my elgato), it does not rip the HDCP from it.

Using my other devices connected to it (A PS4 (With the HDCP Enabled option turned OFF) and a Wii U System) raised zero problems, and thus, I am able to record gameplay perfectly fine. My connections are perfectly fine, and nothing is damaged/broken. So either the splitter cannot strip the HDCP on a Playstation TV system, or my splitter is possibly faulty. Hi Ethan, not all splitters strip the HDCP protection, other splitters require the primary output of the splitter to be connected to a legit device, for example your TV before the second HDMI output actually works.

If one of your splitters support HDCP stripping, then a PS3 should not cause any problems (according to ). I’d try PS3 ->Splitter ->TV (1st HDMI output). Once that works, plugin your Hauppauge in the 2nd HDMI output of the splitter, possibly while your PS3 and TV are running. So TV and capture device should be connected at the same time.

If this does not work for both splitters, then I’m afraid you have HDMI splitters that do not support HDCP stripping. I found that newer splitters do not strip HDCP, the same goes for HDMI splitters that support HDMI 1.4 and newer. Not sure if this is helpful, I hope it does. Some splitters prefer it that you connect everything before you power up the splitter. Hey Ethan, Yes, it has been a hit or miss with 1×2 HDMI Splitters and especially as of late. Currently, the only success I have had at TRULY stripping HDCP has been when using the ViewHD HDMI 1×2 Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3d) receiving signal from a Mac Mini, Output 1 on the splitter going to a TV Output 2 going to an AverMedia Live Gamer Portable.

I am able to record streaming movies from one of the paid subscriber services. Not having a PS3, I can not tell you if this Splitter would work for you. However, I have gone thru quite a few Splitters that just do not strip the HDCP. You can read in some of the previous posts what I have that has and has not worked. Currently I am waiting on a record device that has said that it overcomes HDCP as well as an HDMI 4×2 matrix switch.

As soon as I receive these items, get them set up and tested, I will be posting my findings here. Hi Vicent, Most splitters look very much alike, so it’s pretty much impossible to find the one that strips HDCP. Unless the list it as such or by well, buying it and testing the splitter. Even models that work today, might not work when you buy the same one tomorrow. Kind-a why we’re listing our experiences here.

For example, the one I bought works, but the newer versions no longer seem to strip HDCP. As for the specs, well, I’m not sure these folks that list them, pay much attention to detail. The only thing I looked for is that is should be a splitter supporting HDMI less than version 1.4. Hi need some help here.

I’m an artist that likes to take screenshots from movies and jazz them up for my own personal projects. I have an Elgato60HD, but my PS3 doesn’t work with it. I also have an older Samsung Blu-Ray player but when I tried using it with the Elgato directly, I just got blank screen on my computer and TV due to HDCP. Now I’ve read when you are able to bypass the PS3’s HDCP, it only outputs at 720p. With my blu-ray player, I want to max out at 1080p to get the best quality image from the movie for the screenshot (which I play around with in Photoshop later on).

Will purchasing one of these splitters help me use my Elgato60HD in conjunction with my blu-ray player as in: Blu-ray Player ->HDMI Splitter ->Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder And will it maintain the 1080p output from the blu-ray player? I have a MacbookPro, and I theoretically could get an external blu-ray drive to watch movies on my Macbook and take screens from there, but since I already have an Elgato recorder, it may just be cheaper for me to get the Splitter instead of an External Blu-ray Drive. Happy New Year Jeffrey! The Elgato60HD can do 1080p, so the setup you suggest should enable you to take screenshots in 1080p. (Blu-ray Player ->HDMI Splitter ->Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder) The trick seems to be that not every HDMI splitter strips HDCP, so it’s kind of a hit and miss at times.

I have listed a few models (mind the warnings) that have been reported to work/fail – this is not a guarantee those models work, since manufacturers update their devices to slightly “improved” specs. Also read the comments here, and with listed splitters, to exclude the ones that have fail for others. If you buy one, then definitely look for confirmation in the item description if the seller claims HDCP stripping, or contact the seller to ask for confirmation.

Besides Amazon, seems a good resource as well – again; double check with the seller(s). The ones at AliExpress seem a lot cheaper ($11 with free shipping!), but the listed splitters have incomplete and conflicting information (for example: it lists as HDMI 1.4, but in the details it says 1.3b). Oh and if you found one there; please post the link here so others can use the link as well. Hi Trev, just chiming in I use it for Game Recording (no HDCP stripping needed on a XBox One/360), screenshots (from my laptop) and for my next Ambient Light project where screens are analyzed to control ambient LEDs behind my TV, so it will work all the time. For this I use an Elgato HD game capture, with the software that came with the Elgato.

For my upcoming (if it works) project: Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and 300 LEDs. I did test the HDCP stripping with an Amazon Fire TV (streaming Amazon video, and Netflix video), a Roku box, movie playback on an XBox One (BluRay and streaming) and and XBox 360 (DVD and NetFlix streaming), and it worked in all cases. The splitter I used however, has been reported to fail with the newer production “batches”.

Please note though that my purpose for the splitter is not to record movies, but it works! @Trev I’m using it to record in 1080p60 from my Comcast HD DVR through my Hauppauge HD PVR 60.

Hope to get the X1 DVRs hopefully that will give higher res video than 1080i. So it’s Comcast HD PVR->HDFury Integral to strip HDCP->Hauppauge HD PVR 60->HP Envy 17t. If I get a Blu Ray that does Netflix or the Xbox One I figure I’ll be able to record in 4K in the future. The Integral does all the way up to 4K splitting. Think this should strip everything. Just need to make sure you flash the firmware with the hacked file and change one setting on one of the buttons and it should work. @Brian No problem, you’re welcome.

Oh you just add it to the cart and the options come up on the bottom left. You should be able to see it unless maybe you have some script blocker on or something. You just click share for both facebook and twitter and the codes will pop up.

Their warranty and return policy seems pretty nice too. The Integral is a bit pricey but it pays for itself after like 2-3 seasons of tv series you’re not supposed to record and won’t of course;) Unless you have a TIVO and can do the same thing which makes no sense but yea. Not sure if it’s the same for everyones set up but you need the Silabs driver, the 046022 firmware from the product page and need to get the hack from the forum there: direct link from the tech I talked to because I had problems following the Chinese fonts: and click the GREY download icon where its written 27KB. Install the drivers, connect the Integral to your computer and flash both firmware exes, power cycling after each one and it should work if there was no sound or a static noise before that. I think that’s the only firmware that has a hack to bypass the HDCP nonsense.

I don’t know if the following will be of help regarding the HDCP issues, but here is my recent experience with a splitter which looks similar to others mentioned in various posts. Although I’m not sure what Jeffrey’s splitter looks like, the one that I ordered recently on ebay looks like the first picture on Amazon’s description for the Sanoxy model with the blue and white print as opposed to the other pictures with the white lettering only. Here is the link: for the one that I ordered. While the description says HDMI 1.3, the box and directions say 1.4 but for my problem it works. I cannot say for sure if it removes HDCP as I do not have a Playstation or capture card or similar devices which are mentioned in many articles on various sites.

I also do not have a DVR but rather a Panasonic DVD Recorder. I have DirecTV and some time last year, a change was made which caused this message to appear: “Your TV does not support this program’s content protection. Replacing the TV’s HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the program.” This is only when you have both the HDMI and component cable connection (AV Out) utilized at the same time. The message only appears on the component output not the HDMI.

My component output goes into an Atlona Comp500 converter which outputs an S-Video signal for the Panasonic DVD recorder. The HDMI goes into a Sony TV about six years old.

Regular SD channels are not affected, only HD. I had read somewhere that using a splitter might work for this problem and it did. I took the DirecTV HDMI output into the splitter input, the DirecTV component output into the Atlona, then the HDMI 1 output into the television and the error message was gone when viewing from the Panasonic DVD recorder. Switching channels while watching directly from the television or through the DVD recorder did not make a difference. I have my DirecTV resolution set as native so that the picture is shown in its regular format as opposed to an upscaled one. There is a slight delay here sometimes and others have mentioned that this could be a problem with the HDCP handshake.

I did power on the splitter first before turning on the television and satellite box. The HDMI 2 output was not used. I also tried using the splitter with the same hookup above but also utilizing the HDMI 2 output with an Insignia television about four years old to see if the signal would appear on all three outputs and it did. No error messages appeared. Picture quality through the HDMI splitter looked fine with no apparent difference as compared to a direct connection.

Of course, the output from the Atlona box is SD converted from an HD component signal but I use it to record from time to time and for my purposes, it is adequate. The recorder works better when recording from HD or SD broadcast (over the air) stations since it does its own conversion and has its own tuner so the picture looks sharper and more accurate than the Atlona which is a bit softer and tends to increase colors a bit.

S-Video is the best connection for the DVD recorder as the composite one looks a tad softer if used. Hope this helps someone with a similar situation. So last week after reading some of the posts about the HD Fury Integral, I started hunted one down. They appear to be removed from Amazon now. Found one on Craigslist for $300 in San Francisco.

Went to the HD Fury website and they had them listed as IN STOCK, so I placed the order on Jan 6th. My Paypal account has been processed the $179 but I have received no shipping info.

Tried contacting them but no word yet. Hoping I’m not out $179.

If you are at all thinking about buying one, be careful at this point in time! @Ahmed, No this recorder does NOT record in 5.1, only stereo audio. But for my needs, that wasn’t necessary. It is a great recorder and I just ordered another one last night.

The Cloner Alliance responded to my inquiry about 5.1 any upcoming firmware updates and gave no indication that it would be happening. Still, as a stand-alone recording device this one is by far the best that I have used. I have NOT needed any splitter to be able to record the HDMI signal from my AppleTV. Hope this helps. I was given an HDML Cloner Box Pro for ChristmasI’ve attempted to record various projects.it DOES record from any sourceHOWEVER.

While it does record.and it says that it’s recording in 1080p.it’s actually recording only in (less than standard) 420p. I’ve tried various methods.while the box INDICATES that it IS recording in 1080p. In reality, it only records in 420p. How do I know this?

First, from viewing the recorded file. That’s NOT high definition at all. Secondly, watch the file on the MEDIA PLAYER CLASSIC video software on your computer. While the file is playing.press “PLAY”.then scroll down the menu there.then press “VIDEO STREAM”. I recorded an episode of GAME OF THRONES the video looks great; in full 1080p, high definition, WHILE I’m recording it directly from HBO On Demand HOWEVER.

The video stream indicated this = “video handler [Eng] H264 constrained baseline L4.0 yuv 420p, 1920 x 1080 15854 kb/s (english) ” Do you see that “yuv 420P”. It SHOULD be recording in 1080p.but it isn’t. I dunno what I’m doing wrong.but I can’t get it to record in any higher format than 420p.very soft focus and blurry. I’ve written to Cloner-Alliance about this problem.hopefully; they will have an answer.

That is odd and you should contact HDMI ClonerBox about it. More than likely they will swap it out. I’ve had issue with one of the 3 that I have, where it just stopped recording no matter what i did, and they sent me a new one. I just finished a recording, opened it in both Quicktime and VLC. Here are links showing the item properties from both apps: Quicktime – VLC – I’ve never been able to choose any other settings than 720p and 1080p on the HDMI ClonerBox, so hopefully swapping out for another box will solve your issue. Thank you for reporting this.

First off, we already listed the ViewHD quite a while ago as “confirmed, but recent models fail!!!”. Having said that in the Dutch version of this article a user observed that using different HDMI cables might resolve the issue. In his case he used a shorter HDMI cable, but I’m starting to wonder if it has to do with the quality and certification (HDMI version) of the cable(s) used. Another observation is that all HDMI cables should be connected before powering the HDMI splitter.

And finally, what might help as well, is having a HDCP compliant device on the first HDMI output of the splitter (for example your TV). Please let us know if any of these 3 (or all of them) resolve the issue, I’ll be keeping y fingers crossed. Funny thing is that I just moved and am stuck with Xfinity as my cable provider. I just needed Internet but it came with free basic channels for TV as well.

The guy from Comcast delivered a “new” box (not the X1) which didn’t even have HDMI. When looking at the bottom of the box it said “Manufactured May 2009” 2009!!!! So I asked him for a HDMI box, which he could deliver (the X1) for $69.99/mo so I told him to go put the X1 where the sun doesn’t shine grrr. So bottom line; I can’t test my splitter with the X1, unless someone knows a neat trick to get an X1 without paying $69.99/mo. Hi Michael, I’m actually in the US Houston.

I could choose plenty $$$ packages, but I don’t really need TV, just the basic channels would be sufficient – which comes with my Internet at no extra charge. What baffled me is that they assumed I’d have a TV with a build in tuner (which I do not). Everything is connected through HDMI these days, but their box forces me to use either coax or composite (not component or HDMI). Not to mention that the box is ancient (2009) and only shows video in 4:3 format (horrible on a modern TV). I’m already looking into other options – I’m definitely not going to recommend ComCast to anyone their Internet is fine though, even though they limit your download to 1Tb/mo (which is probably enough) – let’s see what NetFlix and Amazon chew away on a monthly basis hans. I have a question specific on my setup and appreciate any help. I was given a Gateway 42″ Plasma (Model # P42M203).

It unfortunately, only has a DVI-D input which is NOT HDCP compliant (no HDMI). I am trying to connect a Roku to this TV but am getting a flickering screen when using the Sanoxy splitter listed above. My setup is as follows: Roku 3 HDMI output >>SANOXY Splitter (found )>>>HDMI to DVI Cable (found )>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: black flickering screen Roku 3 HDMI output >>HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: Menu loads fine, streamed content displays HDCP error. Does anyone know an appropriate way to go from HDMI to a “non-HDCP” DVI-D port?

I plan to run audio separately using the 3.5mm output on the remote. I’m not trying to record content, etc.

I just want to use this display in a workshop and don’t want to buy another TV. Much appreciated!!

Greg Kneeland. Hi Greg, now this is exactly one of those applications why I posted this article! First thing I’d try is switching your Roku to 720p (if possible), and test it with a regular HDMI capable TV if you have access to one. Or even better, a HDMI game recording device, just to test is HDCP is indeed removed. Second thing I’d try is different HDMI cables. In the Dutch version of this article, one user discovered that one of his HDMI cables failed, where as an other one (not sure if that;s relevant, but it was a shorted HDMI cable) worked just fine.

These would be my first 2 steps of course not having a HDMI recording device to test makes it pretty hard to test. Thanks for the advice. I switched the Roku to 720p (which I totally didn’t even think about) and tested it on a newer plasma w/HDMI. It worked as it should. Then I took it back out to the Gateway plasma and it did work, but with a really choppy picture and the sound had constant static on both menu screen and when streaming Netflix. I tried multiple HDMI cables between the Roku and splitter. I also tried multiple HDMI to DVI cables between the splitter and TV and the result was the same.

My initial thought on the root of the problem are: 1) The splitter is faulty – I then tried the splitter on a couple other TV’s and it worked normally via HDMI to HDMI input. 2) You cannot run an HDMI to DVI cable from the spiltter I do know the DVI input does work on the TV as I have been successful in getting a computer working on it normally. Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP? I am stumped! Hey there so with the Dvi to hdmi the cable ur where using I had a similar problem I had a cable vga to component and it work from the computers vga port to a regular tv component but then I plugged the vga into a monitor and tryed to plug my PS3 into the vga adapter into a monitor but no luck I believe it is cause the computer powers and drives the adapter where when I tryed the adapter and the PS3 into a monitor no luck I will see if I can find u one that might work hopefully I am hoping i did not confuse you if I did message me and I will see if I can explain it better Zach. Thanks again for the help. I used the set up listed below: Roku 3 HDMI output >>>SANOXY HD Splitter(HDCP Stripper) Input (Found )>>>SANOXY HDMI Output 1 >>>Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter HDMI input (Found ) >>>Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter DVI output >>>Gateway TV DVI input The only issue I found with the Revesun HDMI to DVI converter is that it is supposed to convert digital audio to analog.

The analog audio outputs on the unit supply NO sound in my scenario. The Roku 3 remote has a 3.5mm audio output, so I just hook that to my stereo receiver instead. I am not sure if running the HDCP stripper outputs a signal that cannot have audio/video separated but I will run some tests. I’m also going to see if I can’t have another unit sent out and hopefully it will correct the problem. Hey everyone I bought the veiwhd this is the link I received it I tested it on my ps4 but before anyone says anything I turned the hdcp ON my ps4 and recorded Netflix which you can not do with hdcp OFF. I use the Algato hd60 to record and I have tested the hd60 without the veiwhd hooked up to the ps4 and hdcp ON and the hd60 recording software says it can’t record cause hdcp is ON but when I plug the veiwhd in and try it work perfectly strips the hdcp I will keep this update if I try on different devices feel free to ask question.

So in my case the veiwhd works and strips the hdcp Zach. Thanks for posting your findings. I had the same experience with the ViewHD/Elgato. For those where the ViewHD fails: In a post at the Dutch version of the article, one of the users actually noticed that this seems to depend on the HDMI cables used. In my case it worked right away, but in his case it did not. When he swapped his HDMI cable for different ones, it suddenly worked. He was guessing it had to do with cable length, but I suspect it has to do with the quality or HDMI version the cable was made for.

So it’s worth trying different HDMI cables (between video source and splitter). I received an Integral HD Fury a few days ago and have just got around to using it. I “updated” the firmware files and that supposedly was successful but I haven’t been able to get it to work with my DVI input monitor.

The setup is: Laptop HDMI output –>Integral HD Fury –>HDMI cable with HDMI to DVI converter –>Computer monitor DVI input. I ran the Integral GUI on my computer but I am unable to determine what the settings should be to enable the DVI input computer monitor to work. Does anyone know how? Hey Brian – From all that I have read about the Integral, I think you are going to have to instal the hacked firmware 046022, which is a few versions back from the current firmware that it sounds like you have installed.

Someone else posted the files in one of the other replies, so look thru them. Due to carrier issues, mine has not arrived yet so I can not help much, but I think you are still dealing with an HDCP issue thru the DVI, therefore installing the hacked software your issue should be fixed.

Someone else may have a better idea, but I hope this helps. UPDATE: HD Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance. After having the HD C-B hooked directly up to my AppleTV, AppleTV to the HDMI input on the TV, to record Netflix streaming, I decided it was time to hook things back up thru my Onky Receiver (AppleTV to HDMI 1 input on Onkyo Receiver, Blu-Ray to HDMI 2 input on the Onkyo. Onkyo output 1 into C-B, C-B out to TV). No matter what I did in this set up, I could not get the C-B to record nor pass a solid signal thru to the TV. I then tried out how I had originally had success in recording on the Blackmagic H264 recorder (Onkyo HDMI output 1 to the TV, HDMI output 2 to the C-B). I also hooked up the output of the C-B into the 2nd HDMI input on the TV.

As I write this, I am in the process of recording a BluRay to the C-B. All seems to be working fine and I will try the AppleTV thru this setup next. So yes, this is a great little standalone recorder that does overcome HDCP in 99% of the configurations I have tried. Hello to all, I’m actually looking at some conversion for an Intel Compute Stick that I would like to use as a mediacenter in my car. The fact is I bought the (in)famous HDMI2AV adapter from eBay, but when I try it on my TV, nothing shows on screen (I tried different resolution but nothing helps). So basically, I think about the fact that this HDMI2AV adapter is not compliant with HDCP (I get a black screen anyway with any resolution). If someone knows/can tell me how to achieve this, it would be very nice.

Hi SimKard, First thing I’d try is using the HDMI output of another device, for example a laptop (just displaying the desktop of Windows for example) or a media player box (like tha Amazon Fire TV without playing any content). Just to make sure the HDMI2AV works that’s definitely the first thing I’d test. I would not think the HDMI output of your had HDCP, unless you’re playing particular content like NetFlix etc.

According to, the stick might experience HDMI detection/handshake issue as well. Not sure if that’s the case in your situation. If HDCP proves to be an issue, well, then you’re stuck with one or the other HDCP stripper, like some of the HDMI splitters mentioned in this article. Is a hit and miss at times to see if one of these splitters will work though. The “good” news is that these strippers are relatively small, roughly the size of a package of cigarettes, and you should be able to power it in the car (see above). Before buying one, make sure the HDMI2Av actually works, and read the posts here to see the findings of others.

I wouldn’t mind testing one of these sticks, but unfortunately, I do not have one hans. Hi Justin, I think that most sellers (on western world marketplaces) will not easily state or admit that their hardware removes HDCP. A lot of HDMI->RCA converters however, do not strip HDCP – which is unfortunate for situation you’re looking. This is actually the same situation I started out with as well. I needed HDMI ->RCA and none of these converters work when HDCP is involved, which is unfortunate. Since I started out with a project to create Ambilight for all my video sources, I needed a HDMI splitter anyway (to catch all the video that goes from my Home Theatre system to my TV). That’s when I found out that certain cheap HDMI splitters actually strip HDCP.

So the setup will become: video source ->HDMI Splitter ->TV And the second output of the HDMI Splitter ->HDMI-to-RCA converter ->analog video grabber ->AmbiLight device As for your ChromeCast question; I’m not sure what you mean with the analog Audio question. I’d assume that connecting a ChromeCast to the HDMI-splitter, and one output of the HDMI splitter to any HDMI->RCA device would work. Maybe this is helpful, or not, but I downloaded the bin file and made it available here for download. It’s Integral HD Fury firmware version 0.51.0.27 from this link. It’s only 30 Kb in size so I have no idea if this is correct (please confirm). The link for download from Tweaking4All is: If anyone could provide the full specs (ie.

Device info and/or missing files) then I’d be more than happy to post them here as well Feel free to let me know if this is not the right file, or if anything else is missing, since I do not own the Integral HD Fury. I just wanted to comment. Thanks to this website I bought the SANOXY HDMI 1by2 3D Splitter v1.3 HDCP 2ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 DVD BluRay. There is a link to it on this website. It is the top entry of the bullet list of possible hdcp strippers. This list is a little ways above the comment section.

I have an old Sony HDTV with one HDMI input. I can’t watch any premium DISH TV programs because of the hdcp error screen. With my tv if you navigate into the menu you can eventually get to a page that has a field named: HDCP. On my tv it always says HDCP:No. I just hooked up the Sanoxy hdmi splitter and now the field says HDCP:YES. My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stipper. I bought another hdmi splitter off of ebay and I should get it next week.

In the title of the listing it says that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed the seller and asked him if it was a hdcp stripper. He emailed me back and said it can strip hdcp. If it works I’ll post it here in the comment section. Thanks, Tim Tim. Hans, In yesterdays comment I mistakenly said that I navigated into my Sony TV menu to a page with a field labeled HDCP: NO or HDCP: Yes.

It was actually my DISH TV menu I went into. For those of you with DISH TV here is the path: menu – system setup – installation – system info – next.

The page is titled System Info Two. Evidently, HDCP:No means you can’t watch hdcp protected programming and HDCP:Yes means you can. The HDCP field of my DISH TV System Info Two page has always said HDCP:No. I can’t watch premium DISH programing because of the hdcp error screen. Yesterday, when I hooked up my new splitter the field switched to HDCP:Yes. About a week and a half ago DISH offered me free Epix for a month. It wouldn’t work because of the hdcp error screen.

Today I called DISH and resubscribed to Epix. It works perfectly with the splitter. The HDCP field of the DISH TV System Info Two page says: HDCP:Yes.

My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stripper. Just a follow up. Last week I commented on the. I’m able to watch Epix which I purchased from Dish TV. Without the hdmi splitter I get the hdcp error screen.

I also commented that I bought another hdmi splitter from an ebay seller. It arrived yesterday.

I just hooked it up. It works too! Here is the link:. The seller states in the title that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed him before I bought it and he confirmed the same. The original price was $12.48. About a week ago it went up to $14.48.

Now it is $16.48. For the money the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter is a better deal at $15.90. It is a much better construction with a steal case and a heavy duty power cord. The hdmi splitter I bought off ebay is a cheap plastic thing with a cheap power cord. Interestingly, the Sanoxy hdmi splitter pictured on the Amazon website looks like the hdmi splitter I purchased from the ebay seller. The actual Sanoxy hdmi splitter I received in the mail looks totally different and it has a much more solid construction. I hope this is helpful for someone!

I bought two ViewHD splitters that look exactly the same as the Saxony from a different source and they don’t strip HDCP. I opened one and compared it to the circuit board of one in a review that does strip HDCP. The circuit boards are identical, even the markings on it, but it doesn’t strip HDCP. I looked up the chips used on the board and they are identical too but there must be something that changed in the firmware settings used on the HDMI chip that deals with HDCP. I searched for the data sheets for that chip but only found product briefs, no information about programming the chip, it is proprietary information which a non-disclosure agreement is required for. The 3 chips on the board are: STM8S003F3 Sil9187BCNU HDMI processor (This is the chip which deals with HDCP) PI3HDMI412ADZBE Brian. CONFIRMED “VIEW HD MINI” STRIPS HDCP INSTANTLY!!!

I bought this little guy from Amazon with a hope and a prayer that it would solve all of my HDCP issues and Hallelujah it was a miracle from the Video Capturing Gods!!!! This little box came in today and the HDCP Demons left with the Priest or maybe it was the UPS guy lol. I tested on Direct TV’s Gennie Mini with my Elgato for about 7 Hours.

4 straight on Fox Sports 1 and 3 on and off on multiple channels from Sports to local, pay per view and premium channels, everyone worked like it did before this crap came along!! Best $25 I ever spent!! Here is the Amazon Link took 1 day to get here with Free Amazon Prime 2 Day Shipping! If you have any questions feel free to send me a message on my Facebook Page here at CBM Racing.

Your welcome. Ya I had no clue which one to buy because who knows if by the time you get it they fixed itml I felt like I was drowning in a sea of HDMI Splitters and converters so I literally picked and prayed! I use it for a livestream so if it didnt work I would have had 20,000+ pissed off people sending me digital hate mail and comments.

So it works with the Direct Tv Genie Mini paired up with a Elgato HD capture card. Really simple to setup plugin the power supply then take the HDMI cable coming out of the Genie Mini and plug it into the HDMI input on the box. I used HDMI Output 1 into the Elgatos HDMI Input then another cable from the Elgatos HDMI out to my 2014 Vizio smart tv and everything worked like a dream. I personally wouldn’t leave it setup 24/7. Use it only when you need it then unplug the splitter and put it back into its box until its needed again. I ran two 3 hour streams with it and it got warm so to have a good long life I recommend shutting it off when not in use because I have no clue if it will last a day or 10 years that is for another post I guess. But yes its confirmed as of February 27th 2016 it strips away HDCP encryption instantly.

Hope this helps someone. Have I got some questions! Firstly, thanks everyone on this post for the helpful comments, and advice re: HDCP removal, the sheer genuineness of the those who have helped others is very heartening, its rare to see a forum where sarcasm is the least of our worries! My problem is that I have the following kit:- BTSport YouView device (I am in UK) >>HDFury Integral >>Intensity Pro 4K.

I am only interested in recording a 3840 x 2160 4K signal, and after a week of having all the above kit together (the HDFury Integral was the last to arrive), I have tried simply everything with this combination of kit, including trying the hacked 04622, but to no avail, Media Express only ever shows 1920 x 1080 50 at best. A few years ago, with my trusty Hauppauge PVR 1 and then 2, I got used to having no problems at all with 1080 using a 1080 splitter to remove HDCP v1.3, but right now, the last thing I want to see is a 1080 signal showing on Media Express! I know that the removal of HDCP v2.2 encryption and, subsequently via the Integral, HDCP v1.4 encryption, needs to happen for a 4K capture device to have a decrypted signal, but I am not sure if I have it correct in my assumptions that the hacked firmware 046022 is meant to be removing HDCP v1.4 from the HDFury Integral’s output. I know the HDFury Integral by defaults helps to remove HDCP v2.2 and output with HDCP v1.4, and that also by default, HDCP v1.4 encryption isn’t being removed. Tests as per comments on here using the hacked firmware 046022, whilst setting the EDID switch to the bottom position, and reinserting the source etc are making no difference, because the Intensity Pro 4K is not seeing any 4K signal whatsoever, aside from the audio channels in Media Express being “alive”. As a side note, I am using an older firmware for the Intensity Pro 4K that is recommended on Blackmagic’s forums, but still no joy. This is failing I think for one, or maybe both, of the following reasons:- 1:- The Intensity Pro 4K is only able to accept up to 3840 x 2160 30, whilst the BTSport YouView device outputs ONLY at 3840 x 2160 50.

I am not sure, and need help with this, as to whether the Intensity Pro 4K (and other similar capture cards) would, if they see a 3840 x 2160 50 signal incoming, drop the signal down to 30hz and work with that lower refresh rate if that is the highest refresh rate they can cope with, or do they simply have no chance of using a signal with a higher refresh rate? 2:- The hacked 046022 fw for the HDFury Integral is not working as I think it should bebecause I am assuming the hack is supposed to be removing the HDCP v1.4 encryption from the output of the Intregral? Is it, and I hope this isn’t the case, that the hacked fw 046022 only removes HDCP v1.4 for lower (1080) resolutions and not 4K signals? I am unsure as to whether what I think should be happening in 1: and 2: above are correct, so would be very interested to hear from others who might see where the issue is here. If its correct that my only issue here would be that the Intensity Pro 4K is never going to be able to work with the 50hz 4K signal that my BTSport YouView box outputs at (and therefore meaning the HDFury Integral is doing everything correctly), then I might need to return the Intensity Pro 4K and get one of the £500 extra capture cards from Blackmagic, that are listed as being able to work at up to 4k @ 60hz, expensive and frustrating if so, but if I need to do that, then so be it.

(copious amounts of Beer can be forwarded to anyone who manages to get me over this frustrating hurdle!) dazzer169. Hi Nils, well, the Chinese merchants are horrible when it comes to a proper description, and on top of it, I suspect they’d like to not mention HDCP stripping too clearly. The one linked here has been tested by at least 2 people, but since these splitters have a come-and-go pattern when it comes to HDCP stripping, it will always be a little gamble if it will work properly. Then again, the price is right I would say for a gamble like this one, and seeing confirmations here would give me more comfort as well. About 6 months ago I bought one of the “cheapie” splitters (forget the brand, $19.95) and it worked fine for about two weeks.

I did notice it seemed to be pretty hot. Then one day I saw weird flashes on the TV, and before I could do anything the screen went blank. Apparently something shorted in the splitter, and it fried the HDMI input in the TV. Had to resort to using the Composite connectors to use the TV.

So just be aware! I did read a real horror story about use of a multi-port splitter in a Bar with multiple TVs where several of the big screen TVs were wiped out.– Just FWIW. Man that s*cks Since I have never experienced this (knock on wood!); 1) Connect everything while all devices are powered OFF 2) Make sure all your devices are grounded if possible That last one still baffles me, since a lot of TV’s have NO ground pin on their power cord. Maybe there is a smart reason for that, of which I’m not aware. A friend of mine fried his HDMI ports by plugging the HDMI cables in while the devices were ON.

Well, at least that’s the theory. Even though HDMI is supposed to be hot-swappable, manufacturers (Sony at least) state in their manuals that all devices must be OFF before connecting things (see ). Then again, grounding might introduce HDMI ground loop hum.

Never experienced that one either, but there a plenty posts online discussing that. This Article was a life saver for me! I switched televisions when I moved and suddenly my PS3>Onkyo>LG TV (used to be a samsung) didn’t work anymore! Whereas the A.C. Ryan>Onkyo>LG TV still worked fine So I didn’t have a clue what was happening. Didn’t even know there was copy protection protocols through HDMI!

I have just received the splitter below and got PS3>splitter>LG TV working in 2 minutes:D THANKS A LOT! I will also try all devices>Onkyo>splitter>LG TV to see if that works (because in the meantime I also bought a Chromecast which also ‘denies’my tv) Rob. Glad to hear some other are having success with other solutions but just to throw my 2cents in here, I have chased this dragon for years. My big hangup was video conferencing content share from devices that we own specifically but arent hdcp compliant. Some of these are hardwares being tested and created. The only solution I have found that consistently has allowed me to conduct my business.is the ViewHD 1×2 MN3D. I have tested and tested over last few years now and for me, the only solution I have had faith in is that specific model Kurt.

I am a little bit concerned. After reading the article and ALL or the responses above, I just learned that people believe that HDFury got shut down, but I came across this page after I ordered the Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz from their web site. The order went through just fine and I read some other recent news that they have filed a suit against Warner & Intel ().

So maybe they’re still alive and manufacturing new products. I don’t need to strip all HDCP, just go from a 2.2 device to a 1.4 TV. I am not sure that any of the splitters mentioned above would strip 2.2 because the article was written a while ago.

Can anyone confirm any splitters that remove HDCP 2.2 for 4K that don’t require something else to be hooked up to the other output of the splitter? Well, it arrived today (a day early) and really surprised me. After spending the last 3 hours trying to get this thing to work with my 4KTV, I FINALLY got it set up properly. This was NOT a plug and play device. Honestly, I did so many things to try and get this thing to work.

So many combinations of settings. Updated firmware, updated software, uninstall and reinstall of Netflix on the Roku, resetting to 4K UHD on the Roku, going between a Vudu UHD movie and Netflix just trying to get “Ultra HD 4K” to show up as an option.

I couldn’t even replicate my steps. BUT, I finally think I have been able to get the handshake to work. The Roku now recognizes the Integra as a 4K device. The TV now recognizes the Roku and a 4K signal.

• I am able to get the TV to display 3840×2160 / 60Hz • I am able to get YouTube to display 3840 x 2160@24 • I am able to get Vudu to display “UHD” • I am able to get Netflix to display “Ultra HD 4K” as an option and 15.3 Mbps/15.3 Mbps/15.3 Mbps / 3840 * 2160 So, I don’t know how I did it, but this TV is finally displaying beautiful 4K content! The projector does have HDMI in, so this is not an issue. In the past I have connected a lap-top to a TV via HDMI without any problems. I’ve also connected a HDD to a TV via USB, without any problems. This will be different in that I’ll be using a splitter so I can share the signal from my desk-top computer with a video projector, my PC monitor and a receiver (where one HDMI line will carry the audio). As for “cheap” splitters – – I’m a firm believer that higher priced items don’t necessarily mean better – so I have no problem with this suggestion.

That being said, I haven’t been able to find a low priced one among those listed on this site, that offer 1 in and 3 or 4 out (they all only have 1 in and 2 out), and the only ones that I can find which offer this make-up also are HDCP compliant, thus my question about the signal from the PC (which isn’t HDCP compliant) being able to pass through without any blockage problems from the splitter. Hi Ted, I can confirm that my cheap splitter, 1.5 years later, still works great so cheap does indeed not always mean “junk”. As for finding a 1×3 or 1×4 splitter, I see that most just want a 1×2, so you’re right that you could not find much on larger models.

However, when looking at AliExpress, I did find some. The result of my search can be found. I have not been able to test any of these, so it remains a gamble. However looks a lot like mine, just bigger, and advertises HDCP as well. Now I cannot guarantee that this one works of course, but it’s $15. It might be worth a try. I did find a couple on as well, again: no guarantee that they will remove HDCP, but not super expensive either.

With a user suggests it strips HDCP, not sure if that is still the case of course. You might want to go through the reviews of the splitters presented in this and look for HDCP. Amazon might be a few dollars more, but when located in the US, shipping will be a lot faster. If you find a model that works, please let us know, so I can update the list in this article hans.

Hi Hal, I’m about to disappoint you – – I’ve decided not to use a 1:4 splitter, so won’t be able to test out the one I was going to get. The reason for this change of plan is because further research has shown that I can get the same results by running a HDMI line from the PC to the receiver and then run a new line from the receiver to the projector – – apparently with-out any signal loss This brings me to a new question for you: my current choice for a 1×2 splitterr is the VHD-1X2MN3D – – however, I notice that ViewHD has another splitter that has similar approval ratings – the Ultra HD 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter Model: VHD-Pluto.

Do you have any experience from this unit – and if so, even though I don’t plan to move up to 4k in the long range future, do you think it would be a wise choice, or would I be better off sticking with the older model (the MN3D)?? Hey Ted, Just be aware that the route you are about to take may not work. I have several Onkyo receivers that I was trying to take the main HDMI output, as well as trying the secondary HDMI output, into a splitter with it’s main HDMI output going my Samsung LED TV and the secondary output to an HDMI video recorder. For whatever reason, I could never get it to work. Only when I took the HDMI output from a device (AppleTV, Amazon FireTV, Bluray player) into the splitter, it’s main output to the TV and the secondary output to a recorder did it work.

You may have better luck with a different AV Receiver (and please post your findings here as well as model numbers for all the equipment used) as well as just going into a projector. Good luck and let us know how it goes! No worries Ted – you’re not disappointing me After all, we all have to find our way to a working solution, and in the end that’s all that matters. Sharing your findings here is appreciated though, since others might run into a similar scenario. As for 4K splitters: I have no experience with those, since I have no use (yet) for 4K video.

Maybe in the future when I decide to invest in a new TV. Considering the price of a working 1×2 HDMI splitter (non 4K), I’d go with that one, unless the 4K splitter strips HDCP as wel of course and only if it’s affordable. @Trev: Thanks for sharing! On my old (5 years old) Yamaha this worked: HDCP source into HDMI-input of the receiver, and the HDMI output of the receiver to a splitter and the splitter to my TV. But I have heard of others running into the same situation as you did where the splitter had to be connected directly to the source that had HDCP protection. Further research has steered me away from the unit I was considering – not because it won’t work, but because, where I live (Canada), it was going to cost more than double, at Amazon.ca, than what Amazon.com sells it for. I’ve since settled on a different unit, that’s also available from Amazon in both countries ( – supports HDMI 1.4, 4K, keeps audio te same as the source).

One customer review said it will strip out the HDCP protection, but, for their purposes (gaming), it caused other problems. We shall see Ted. Your setup will work. A few things you’d want to pay attention to, if you’d like to keep the surround sound: 1) The splitter will have to support surround sound (AC3/DTS/etc/etc). Some of these splitters seem to downsample to just stereo, so you’ll have to pay attention to that. 2) For recording on your PC, you’d need some sorts of video grabber. There are several different brands and models available, and I’m sure that not all of them support surround sound like AC3/DTS either.

So you’ll have to pay attention with that one as well. Here is a list at for example, listing the HDMI “recorders” they have available. I recommend reading the specs (which rarely mention surround sound) and check the user comments. Hope this helps. Hi Michael, I know it’s not top of the line, but I have been very pleased with my. It’s not the cheapest I have seen, app.$150, but it has performed very well for me on both MacOS X and Windows 10.

So far I’ve used it for: – HDMI recording (tests for this article, and some game recording), – screenshots from a HDMI input (for documenting some of my articles here), – converting VHS to MP4. It is not often mentioned that the Elgato has the option for analog input as well (component, super video and composite – if I recall correctly, for s-video a separate cable needs to be purchased). My sister had an echo of her first kid, and received it in 2003 on VHS and DVD. The VHS recording with the Elgato actually proved of a better quality than the DVD that had been made at the time. In the past I have had, which used to have a stellar reputation, but long term driver support has been disappointing – not sure what the status is these days. Used to be my favorite on the Windows platform, but since I have switched to Mac, I can’t use it anymore.

It also has been relatively quiet with that company, not sure if that’s a good or a bad thing. I have tried a few cheap grabbers from eBay, AliExpress and the likes – they work, but in the end drivers become a problem and the quality isn’t the best. I have found that searching for a “” device, shows quite a few good options. Another good option might be one of these upcoming “” – a little box, that runs standalone, grabs video and the stores it on a USB drive. This thread has been really helpful to me.

Thanks everyone! I wanted to share some info for my specific situation. I have a nice Apple computer display that I wanted to use to watch Blu Rays from my BD Player. I’m playing only discs I’ve purchased and I’m not interested in copying them. The monitor uses DVI-D and of course does not have HDCP. Typically, hooking things up it will flash thrice, which means “wrong video format.” Computer monitors and TVs are not the same devices in all ways.

Based on the great info here I was able to get a setup that works pretty well. Basically it’s BD player >>>Apple Cinema Display. I get good 2-channel audio from the Audio Extractor, which is as much as I need. You can probably get 5.1 cia coax digital but I have no way to test that. It’s not perfect but it works. The aspect ratio of my display isn’t the same as 1080p, it’s a 1920×1200. The video image is at the top of the screen, with a strange repeat of the frame on the bottom 1″ of the screen.

It’s easy to ignore and I haven’t figured out how to avoid it. In terms of color, I suspect it’s not quite right. Based on some research it’s likely that the display expects to get full-range 0-255 RGB. My BD player doesn’t have a ton of settings and it’s most likely sending it limited-range 16-235 RGB. No Deep Color possible via DVI Single Link. Still it looks fantastic generally. I’m going to put a piece of paper over it and call it done.

Here’s what did NOT work for me: – PCB says ‘HDMI 1.4 1to2 with 3D, Rev1.1″ even though listing was for HDMI 1.3. Generic and branded chips. Seller was not Speed LLC, should have tried that. – PCB is different from above, says “20150710, 0102”, Branded chips. Might work for you, though. (general type) in any configuration.

Well, when used as follows I got a signal but it had lots of horiz pink lines. Not acceptable. BD Player >Portta Splitter >HDMI to DVI adapter >Apple Cinema Display. Sony BD player. I got lucky and got a Samsung that worked.

I believe it uses HDMI 1.4 vs the Sony’s 1.3, but it’s not listed in the manual. I was surprised that would make a difference. Anyway I hope this helps anyone in my same situation. Based on my googling for my display, there are others out there. Cheers Robby. Hi chaps, What im trying to achieve doesn’t seem to be listed here so far. I have a 28″ viewsonic VX2880ml 4K monitor which will only do 30fps for 4k.

I am trying to find a way to use my amazon 4K firetv box on this monitor, but even with a couple of the switch boxes listed here (cant remember what they are im at work so will look later, the iSolem is one) I am unable to get this to work yet. Question is, because the monitor is HDMI 1.4 am I out of luck anyway, or could this still be possible to get working? Russ collins.

Hi Russ, I do not have any 4K equipment, but as far as I recall HDMI 1.3 only supports up to 1080p (see, which indicates that 4K starts as of HDMI 1.4). Now, this doesn’t mean you’re out of luck, it will just be a matter of finding the right splitter (if it exists). Maybe others here have suggestions, since I cannot test this, but I’d assume is the most likely source – read the comments, if any are available on AliExpress underneath the product info.

The descriptions can be pretty bad. If you find one, please post it here! I’m sure others.